how to modify the amplifiers of the mono into stereo

You need two mono amps circuit.In fact, a series of separate TSB.Inputs (sound source) is also generally 2 (stereo / R + L) example of vcd / dvd No red and white jacks (yellow for images).,Or more simply, you buy another mono amps 1 + trafonya. Red jack cable in amps No. 1 and the cable jack on the amp white no 2.Because assemblies amplinya alone then need two pieces of main speakers connected to each amp output.,Nach if want to be first place (not combined) that is the only source of current (power supply / power supply) is from one transformer.That way you do not need a transformer and power supply circuit again.If you want to add to the potentiometer "balance" then after foot No. 2 volume potentiometer is connected to the edge leg balance potentiometer (eg R on the right and L dikiri) middle leg in tandem with 0v / neutral.So later on mounting potentiometer barriers only balance if you want to add to the potentiometer TSB.To use the potentiometer Volume / Bass / Treeble if would be made in one piece potentiometer on each function then you must buy 3 pieces of stereo potentiometer. To pair off and in order, and put it on the front foot / back of each series amps TSB. Suppose amps to-1 potentiometer mounted on the foot and forefoot all amps 2nd leg potentiometer mounted on the back foot all.

Stereo amplifier is 2 mono amplifiers are packaged in a single container. every not interconnected employment but only on the balance.
So two mono amplifier is not merged, but masing2 given the stereo input signal (usually marked with L and R -> Left and Right)
If the stereo amplifier with a mono bijsa in jadiin BRIDGE way, but,,, if mono amplifier can not in making stereo.
The only way to use 2 KITs yes mono amplifier.

Tips DIY installation tools

If you’re going to take on installing a system yourself — or at least parts of it — you need certain tools. You may already have some on hand — such as screwdrivers, a drill, and Allen wrenches — whereas others are designed for car audio-specific tasks. What follows is a list of some of the specialized tools, along with an explanation of what each does:

Panel tool: This device comes in one of several different configurations and helps you pry off factory panels to install components and run wires.

Wire stripper and crimping tool: This tool is used for stripping the insulation from wires and making wire connections, such as with factory wiring harness adaptors when installing head units and speakers. 

read What's the Frequency, Kenneth HD Radio for All Boils Down to Better Sound

Test light or digital multimeter: A test light has a small needle that is placed against wires, or even inserted through a wire’s insulation to contact the center conductor, and a light that turns on to show if the wire is hot or carries current. But with today’s sophisticated electronics onboard a vehicle, using a test light to penetrate a wire can sometimes be problematic. For example, probing the wrong wire could cause an airbag to blow. That’s why a multimeter, an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit and doesn’t need to penetrate a wire’s insulation to get an accurate reading, is preferable.

Window and door clip remover: Window and door handles are usually held on by special clips that can be difficult to remove, except with this particular tool.

Many of these tools are available individually, or you can buy several of them in a kit (see Figure 19-9). Car audio accessories suppliers such as Scosche and lnstaller.com sell them to the car audio industry, and Crutchfield sells a version of Scosche’s DIY Installer tool kit.

Figure 19-9:

A DIY tool kit from Scosche.

Keeping It Quiet for Reproducing Great Audio

The car is a noisy environment for reproducing great audio. Between road noise generated by tires spinning on the pavement, wind noise caused by the vehicle cutting through the air at highway speeds, and engine noise constantly droning away, it can be difficult to enjoy a car audio system while driving down the road at the speed limit.

You may have noticed that some cars are quieter than others. The interior of a Cadillac, for example, is much quieter than that of a Chevy Lumina. That’s because carmakers use more sound-deadening material in luxury cars to keep exterior noise at bay, and much less in economy vehicles.

Sound-deadening material

Because noise can rob a system of good sound, car audio enthusiasts add sound-deadening material to their vehicles to get the same sort of quiet ride found in luxury vehicles, sound-deadening material generally comes in self-adhesive sheets that can be applied to the metal parts of a car (see Figure 19-3). It’s also available in a liquid form that can be sprayed on, although application of the liquid requires a power sprayer and is best left to professionals. You can buy sound-deadening material from a car audio retailer or order it online.

Sound deadening works by adding mass or weight to an object; in this case, the metal panels of a car. Every object has a resonant frequency (the natural frequency at which it vibrates), and those vibrations cause noise. A car creates plenty of vibrations: from the engine, from wind, from the road, and even from speakers in a car audio system. Adding mass to an object lowers its resonance frequency, and more energy is required to make it vibrate. It’s like when, say, a table is vibrating: When you put your hand on it, it stops vibrating and stops making noise.

Of course, adding more weight also makes the vehicle heavier, which can lower fuel economy. If you’re only using sound-deadening in, say, your doors, this may not be a big issue, but if you’re adding it to your whole car — and you racQ in sanctioned events on the weekend — it could be. 

Figure 19-3:

Scosche

Accumat

sound-

deadening

material. 

Courtesy of Scosche

Besides stopping unwanted resonances, sound-deadening material also helps form a barrier that road noise and wind noise have a harder time penetrating. And it can block heat from the engine compartment. These are two reasons it’s used by hot rod and custom-car builders.

Adding Sound-deadening material is a modification that a DlYer can easily tackle. For detailed tips on how to do it, see the “Installation Tips for Accessories,” section later in this chapter. Sound-deadening material can be applied almost anywhere in a vehicle, such as on the

Doors (Figure 19-4)

Floorboard (Figure 19-5)

Roof (Figure 19-6)

Trunk (Figure 19-7) 

Figure 19-4:

Dynamat sound- deadening on a door.

Courtesy of Dynamic Control

Figure 19-5:

Dynamat sound- deadening on a floorboard.

Figure 19-6:

Dynamat sound- deadening on a roof.

Courtesy of Dynamic Control

Figure 19-7:

Dynamat sound- deadening in a trunk.

If you want to add sound-deadening to your car, start by covering the area you can most easily reach, such as the inside of the front doors. (Manufacturers of sound-deadening material even offer kits specifically for doors.) See what sort of effect this has. If it resolves the problem, you’re done; otherwise, move on to harder to reach areas. In extensive car audio systems, installers will sometimes start by completely stripping the interior of a vehicle and covering every metal part of the interior with sound-deadening material to ensure a quiet environment.

Installation Tips for Accessories Audio Car

Installing accessories is something even beginning DIYers can do, particularly when it comes to capacitors and sound-deadening material. But make sure you carefully follow the directions given here and those included with the products. You’d better leave installation of backup batteries, isolators, and alternators to professionals, however. And remember: Whenever you’re working with a car’s electrical system, disconnect the negative lead of the battery. Otherwise, you could cause a short if a hot power wire accidentally grounds to a part of the vehicle and fries one of your car audio components or, worse, your car’s electrical system.

Capacitors 

Capacitors should be mounted as close to an amplifier as possible, and they should be wired before the amplifier, with the positive terminal in-line with the amplifier’s main power lead and the negative terminal attached to ground. Most caps come with a mounting bracket, which can be attached to the body of the car (as long as you know the screw won’t potentially damage anything behind the panel). Sometimes capacitors are installed on an amp rack also.

Because capacitors can store a large amount of energy, you’ll need to protect the terminals, usually located on top, because they are hot or carry current. Many capacitors come with a cover that protects the terminals. Use it. Otherwise, a significant spark could be generated across the terminals if they are shorted out, meaning some type of conductive material (such as metal) touches both terminals. Although this isn’t particularly dangerous, it could permanently mar the terminals, which are usually gold-plated.

A capacitor also needs to be charged after it’s installed. To do this, you need a resistor and a volt meter. (Most capacitors come with a resistor.) To charge the capacitor, replace the fuse in the power wire’s main fuse holder with the resistor while charging the cap. With the negative power wire connected to the battery and power flowing through the amplifier’s main power wire, carefully place the probes of the volt meter on the positive and negative terminals of the capacitor. After the volt meter reads 12 volts, the capacitor is charged and you can disconnect the negative wire from the battery and swap the resistor for the power fuse.

Auxiliary batteries

Auxiliary batteries are usually installed in a trunk or a hatch. If you’re using a traditional lead acid battery, which has become less common in car audio applications, it has to be isolated from the passenger compartment, which is almost impossible in a hatchback or pickup. Otherwise, the battery needs to be in a car’s trunk and vented to the outside of the vehicle with a forced-air system involving fans and vents. That’s because, while charging, a lead acid battery releases flammable gases that can possibly cause an explosion.

Because of these concerns, using dry cell batteries for car audio applications has become more common. The advantage of using a dry cell battery is that it doesn’t contain liquid, so you don’t have to worry about battery acid leaking the way you would with a traditional lead acid battery. In fact, dry cell batteries? can be mounted on their sides or even upside down. You just want to make sure they are secured to the vehicle.

When hooking up a backup battery to your charging system, you’ll need a battery isolator, as I mentioned earlier in the chapter. The isolator goes between the batteries and the alternator, and there must be a fuse between each battery and the isolator. If the second battery is mounted in the rear of a vehicle, such as in the trunk, and the isolator is mounted in the engine compartment, you’ll need two in-line fuses with the power wire, both close to the battery and close to the isolator.

Modifying a vehicle’s charging system is best left to someone who knows what they’re doing, such as a mechanic or a professional car audio installer. If you start messing with your car’s charging system and you’re not 100 percent competent to do so, you could cause thousands of dollars in damage to your car.

Sound-deadening material

Installing sound-deadening material is pretty straightforward, provided that you know how to take apart your vehicle’s interior — and properly put it back together again. 

To install sound-deadening material, you need

• Acetone and rags for cleaning the metal surfaces you’ll be applying the material to.
• A razor knife or large scissors for cutting the material.
• A roller tool for getting rid of any bubbles and making sure the material is fully adhered to the metal (see Figure 19-8). A roller tool can be found at any hardware store. The original sound-deadening supplier to the car 1 audio crowd, Dynamat, also sells them.

Before you begin, it’s a good idea to lay the sound-deadening material in the sun or some other warm spot to heat it up slightly so that it’s more pliable.

Here are the steps you’ll need to take to install sound-deadening material:

1. Remove the cosmetic panels of the car to expose the metal surfaces you want to apply the sound-deadening material to. Most panels are held in by clips, screws, plugs, and other fasteners or some combination all of these. You may need a special tool, such as a panel tool or clip-retention tool to remove some panels. These can be purchased online at Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com), Installer, com (www.installer.com), and other sites. Take your time to figure out the correct way to remove a door panel, and make certain you know how it goes back together. Check online forums for information about how panels are removed in a given vehicle if you get stuck or you’re not sure. Better yet, ask someone, such as a professional installer, who has worked on one.
2. Clean the metal with acetone and rags to remove any dirt, grease, or anything that can affect the adhesion of the material.
3. Using the scissors or razor knife, cut the material into the shape of the panels you intend to cover. A paper or cardboard template is helpful in properly sizing sections before cutting the material.
4. After you’ve cut the material to the proper size, peel off the liner on the adhesive side and carefully apply the material to the metal panel. If you are using whole sheets on a large area, peel off the liner in sections so that not all of the adhesive is exposed at once.
5. After the material is in place, to ensure a good bond, use the roller tool to remove any bubbles that may have formed between the sound- deadening material and the metal. 
6. In places where there are ridges, such as in the doors, make sure that the material touches the metal and doesn’t just bridge these areas. For small air bubbles that can’t be removed with the roller tool, use the razor knife or scissors to poke a small hole in the bubble to deflate it and then press down on the material.
7. Reinstall the panels of the car.

Gearing Up with Accessories Car Audio Systems

In This Chapter

► Providing your system with extra power

► Keeping your car quiet

► Installing accessories

► Essential tools for DIY installers

Car audio enthusiasts just can’t leave well enough alone, and you should be thankful for that. Hardcore car audio types aren’t satisfied with a great-sounding system: They always think it can sound even better. This relentless pursuit of perfection has brought us accessories that help squeeze the nth degree of performance out of a system.

Many of these innovations grew directly out of enthusiasts involved in sound- off competitions seeking just a little bit of an edge. Now, once-novel accessories such as capacitors and sound-deadening material have become a standard part of any high-performance car audio system.

In this chapter, I look at some of the accessories that can give you more power, eliminate unwanted noise, and make installation easier.

More Pouter to You: Capacitors, Batteries, and Alternators

Your car’s charging system isn’t designed to power a high-end car audio system. Car manufacturers design a vehicle’s charging system to handle the load that all of a car’s electrical components — including headlights, wind¬shield wipers, and air conditioning — place on it. Then they factor in a margin of error for those times when you may be using most of the car’s major electrical devices at once, like at night, in a rain storm, during the heat of summer. 

Carmakers also realize that people may add aftermarket accessories to their vehicles, such as car audio systems. At some point, the car’s charging system runs out of juice if you keep placing demands on it by adding more electrical components. Fortunately, you can do a few things to get more power.

Music is transient in nature, meaning that there are loud and soft parts, so the demand a car audio system places on a car’s charging system isn’t constant, as it is with, say, a car’s headlights. Your charging system may handle just fine music that isn’t very dynamic (for example, music that doesn’t have lots of loud and soft parts, such as mellow music with just an acoustic guitar and voice).

But with music that is very dynamic with lots of loud and soft parts (think of a rock, rap, or pop song), your electrical system is asked to provide power in quick bursts during the loud parts. When a deep bass note hits in a rap recording, for example, the amount of power provided by the charging system may sag a bit, and the amplifier powering the subwoofers in turn can’t deliver the full audio signal without distorting it. Distortion in large quantities can even cause a speaker to blow or fail.

That’s why innovative car audio enthusiasts have come up with ways to solve these power problems. Accessories such as capacitors, auxiliary batteries, and high-output alternators are added to a car’s charging system to provide extra juice when the music in a car audio system demands it.

Capacitors

Capacitors are used in most electronic products, and it’s common to see many of them populating a circuit board. These cylindrical devices store power the way a reservoir stores water. So when a circuit needs a bit of juice, the cap releases it. A capacitor is able to deliver power more rapidly than the car’s charging system because the power capacitor has a lower internal resistance, which allows it to quickly discharge.

In the early 1990s, car audio sound-off competitors started adding large capacitors to their sound systems to provide instantaneous power when peaks in a musical passage demanded it. Before long, car audio-specific capacitors became available to the masses, and now they are a common sight in most high-end systems (see Figure 19-1).

Capacitors are easy to install for even a beginner DIYer. See the section, “Installation Tips for Accessories,” later in this chapter for more on how to install them. 

Capacitors are rated in Farads, which is a measure of how much power they can store. The rule of thumb is to use 1 Farad of capacitance for every 1,000 watts of power. So if you have a 500-watt system, you would need a 0.5-Farad capacitor.

Capacitors are available in Farad ratings ranging from 0.5 up to 40 for extremely high-powered systems, and vary in price from $75 for a 0.5-Farad cap to more than $500 for a large-Farad version. Besides Farad rating and shape, capacitors also differ in features, with some sporting built-in digital voltage meters and power-distribution blocks. You can buy a capacitor from most car audio retailers, and they’re available online from e-retailers such as Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com).

You probably don’t need a capacitor if you have a modest system without a subwoofer, but you could probably use one if your system includes at least one subwoofer. If you have several amplifiers and multiple subwoofers, adding a cap or two can definitely improve your system’s performance.

Whether you need a capacitor also depends on how much current your amplifiers draw from the vehicle’s charging system as well as the type of music you listen to. If you primarily listen to bass-heavy rap music and your headlights dim every time your system hits a bass note because of the strain on your car’s charging system, a capacitor could help. (You should also have your car’s electrical system checked to make sure it’s up to snuff, however.) Or if you think the total current draw of all of the amplifiers in your system starts to exceed the capacity of your car’s alternator, you’ll probably want to add a cap.

Auxiliary batteries

Adding an extra battery to your system doesn’t provide more power, but it does let you play your system with the engine off. Listening to a system, especially if it’s a high-powered one, with the engine off is a sure way to end up with a dead battery. Some enthusiasts, mainly sound-off competitors, add a battery solely dedicated to providing power for engine-off listening. Because of the complexity of adding a second battery, this application is best left to the most hardcore car audio enthusiasts and installation is best left to professionals.

If you do decide to add a second or auxiliary battery, it’s a good idea to use the same type of battery as your main one. You should also install a battery isolator, which is a device that electrically isolates the auxiliary battery from the starting battery. This way, if the auxiliary battery’s power is depleted, it doesn’t affect the starting battery. Although a battery isolator isn’t required, it can prevent you from getting stuck with a dead starting battery.

Two types of isolators are available. A diode isolator is the most straightforward and trouble-free, but can create a slight voltage loss. This means that both batteries won’t charge fully, although this is rarely a major problem. A solenoid isolator employs relays or switches to regulate the flow of current with practically no loss of voltage, but they are not as reliable as diode-based isolators.

Batteries made specifically for car audio applications are now available, and can be used for a starting battery, an auxiliary battery, or both. These are usually dry cell batteries, meaning they don’t contain liquid like traditional lead-acid car batteries. They are also typically deep-cycle batteries, meaning they can be discharged and recharged repeatedly, and they recharge quickly. 

High-output alternators

An alternator supplies power for all of a car’s electrical components, including a car audio system, when the engine is running. At the same time, it also charges the battery, which powers all of a car’s electronics when the engine is not running. As I mentioned previously, your car’s charging system, and the alternator specifically, are designed to provide enough power for all of a car’s electrical components and then some. Your car’s standard alternator should do okay with a moderately powered system that only includes, say, a couple of amplifiers, as long as you’re not constantly cranking it up.

But if you plan on installing a bunch of amplifiers and subwoofers, your alternator may not be able to keep up with the current demands placed on it. That’s why some companies sell high-output alternators for car audio purposes (see Figure 19-2). Be warned: Upgrading your car’s alternator is a major modification that affects the rest of the electrical system and is a complex and costly undertaking. It’s an upgrade needed by only the most hardcore car audio enthusiast and crank it up competitors who are trying to achieve the highest sound pressure levels (SPL) possible. These folks typically upgrade the alternator in show vehicles that aren’t driven on a daily basis — their vehicles are more for show than go. Upgrading the alternator just to get a few more decibels of bass from your system isn’t worth the cost, hassle, and potential adverse effects on your car. 

Figure 19-2:

A Stinger Electronics high-output alternator.